Tour of Historic Hebron Casbah

Tzipi Shlissel, long-time Hebron resident and author of the newly
released book Hebron Breaks
the Silence led a tour of Hebron’s historic
casbah.

 

Once part of the Jewish quarter, today the area resembles the Muslim quarter
of Jerusalem’s Old City with its narrow alleys lined with small shops. Although it is
part of the Israeli controlled H2 section of Hebron, Israelis are only permitted
escorted access with prior permission on Shabbat and special occasions. The bustling
casbah is located about a five minute’s walk from the Cave of the Patriarchs parallel to
King David Street / Shuhada Street.

 

Shlissel has lived in Hebron since 1998 but has a rich family history in the
city. Her grandmother Tzipora, for whom she is named, lived in Hebron with her family.
Her father, Rabbi Shlomo
Raanan was a grandson of Israel’s first Chief Rabbi Avraham Yitzchak Kook who also
played a role in Hebron’s history. 

 

Shlissel shared a story of her grandmother from 1928 in which she secretly
prayed at the Tomb of Machpela. At the time, non-Muslims were banned from entering the
Machepla complex and Jews were restricted to the seventh step of the staircase leading
to the building. However one day, Tzipora borrowed a traditional Arab dress from her
Arab neighbor, a laundress by trade and entered the holy site
unnoticed. 

 

Hebron has grown exponentially since the end of the Jordanian period and what
once was a commercial center is now a historic touristy area call “old town” by the
locals. Today’s true center of Hebron is located in the Palestinian Authority controlled
H1 section, which comprises 80% of the city, the towering Hebron center shopping mall
contains countless restaurants, clothing stores and retail outlets. International chain
such as Mango clothing and Kentucky
Fried Chicken are prominent in the downtown area. A soccer stadium, hospitals
and universities are other major landmarks, all invisible from the dark, narrow alleys
of the Casbah where falafel, wooden flutes, jewelry, pendants, live animals and more on
sale. 

 

A few steps away from the western entrance, Shlissel climbed a vintage
staircase to point to the home of Bechor Levy, the famed educator who worked in Rehovot
as a teacher and principal for over 40 years. Today a school in Rehovot is named in his
memory. He got his start in Hebron, where he was fluent in both Arabic and Hebrew. The
mezuzah slot can still be seen on the doorpost of his house, the mezuzah having been
removed long ago.

 

She also pointed out a former synagogue building and explained the struggle
for Jewish-Israelis to re-purchase properties lost during the 1929 riots. That massacre, in
which 67 civilians were killed, resulted in the removal of all Jewish residents, her
grandmother’s family included.

 

Next on the tour was the site of a 1985 stabbing attack in which IDF soldier
Avraham Sorek was killed.
The 38-year-old reservist was an immigrant from Chile. The Jewish Telegraphic Agency
reported at the time, “shortly after the stabbings, Jewish settlers tore down a wall
separating the casba from the Jewish quarter of town. They said it was a symbolic reply
to those who do not want Jews in the casba.”

 

The tour continued as it passed vendors selling soap, olive oil and flutes to
the gate that once led to the historic Jewish Quarter, once called the “Jewish ghetto”
in writings of the time. Researchers note it was the only location in the land of Israel
to be called a “ghetto.” The entrance was hidden by a variety of scarves and hats from
nearby shops. A local salesman who lives in a nearby shop revealed that still today the
gate is called Bab Haret El Yahud (the gate of the Jewish Quarter) and that there were
many Jewish-owned shops there until the 1929 riots.

 

The next stop on the tour was a brightly lit area which Shlissel identified
as the spot described by the 17th century traveler Moshe Yerushalmi, author of
The Journeys of the Karaites to Eretz Israel –
1655-1654. Reprinted in modern times, the travel journals describes
visiting Hebron’s Jewish quarter on Rosh Hodesh Chanukah, and the hospitality he enjoyed
from the locals.

 

A little further away located in front of a pigeon shop was the entrance to
the first house built outside the Jewish Quarter. It was owned by Itche Slonim in 1861
and was famous for its red tile roof, which was unusual compared to traditional Arab
construction. Today, gentrification has destroyed the once distinctive roof, but like
other buildings in the casbah, the mezuzah slot still survives.

 

A house next door still displays a Magen David (Jewish Star of David) symbol
above the doorpost. It was called Kabbalists Corner and served as a synagogue and study
hall. Clearly visible plaster filled the slot where the mezuzah once was, almost
concealing it. Former mezuzah slots were visible on each of the inner doors as well.
Today, the building serves as an animal pen. The tour participants were told that the
current residents and vendors pay rent to the IDF Civil Administration because the
building is owned by the Israeli government. 

 

Next on the tour was the “Mashkof HaMenorot” or Lintel of the Menorahs, a
historic archway that once displayed a stone-carved depiction of three seven-branched
menorah symbols. The original stones were estimated to be from the Second Temple Era. In
2014 the decorative archway was removed completely and paved over with
concrete.

 

The journey continued through the lower Casbah to a structure whose past
splendor was still visible. Supported by marble columns with decorated iron-wrought
windows, the building was home to the Anglo-Palestine Bank. Opening in 1907, it was the
third branch of the institution which later became Bank Leumi. Serving both Arabs and
Jews, the bank brought economic prosperity to Hebron during a period when it was
considered a backwater town.

 

Next on the tour was Beit Magen Avot, built by the Rivlin family, which
featured a rare pewter installation in the lintel. A plaque nearby was dedicated in
memory of Yehoshua Salome
who was murdered in 1980 while shopping, the first civilian to be murdered in Hebron
since 1929.

 

The tour of the casbah ended in front of Beit Romano which was built by a
wealthy Jewish merchant in 1862 at what was then, the edge of the city.

 

As the group exited the casbah, the tour continued down King David Street to
the checkpoint that separates bustling PA Hebron from the Israeli side. Shlissel pointed
over the guardrails to a building where her Aunt Leah and grandmother Tzipora once
lived.

 

The rest of the trip was dedicated to areas within the current confines of
the Jewish neighborhoods with such sites as Beit Hadassah, the newly inaugurated Tel
Hevron archaeological garden, the Tombs of Jesse and Ruth and the Beit Menachem
apartment complex.

 

 

* סיור
בקסבה: חברון שוברת שתיקה

* Tour the
“Jewish ghetto” of Hebron with Tzipi Shlissel

* Flood
Libel In Hebron